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 02-02-2017, 06:52 Post: 32343
cutter



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 how is the barn going Cutter?

Hi Steve. The barn has shaped up quite nicely. I have to run the electric, which involves splitting the service and putting my meter on a pole and feeding the house and barn from there. It is costly but the best method, since I plan on running more than lights in the future. For this year I can afford to split the service, the 400' of underground to the building will have to wait. I will run some romex out there for the winter on a gfi. So far, the two tractors and project boat have fit just fine. I have extra room for my other "collectables" and the shop is still empty! I am pleased so far.






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 02-02-2017, 16:41 Post: 32354
cutter



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 how is the barn going Cutter?

The actual distance is 375' that will be underground in conduit. I can stretch it to that according to my electrician. I will install the conduit and cable along with a hand hole, and he will tie it into my waterproof switchbox and do just enough in the building to pass inspection. From there....weeell..running wire is one of the jobs I enjoy doing. The other option is the one you had no choice but to take.






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 02-04-2017, 03:02 Post: 32367
cutter



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 how is the barn going Cutter?

I am probably going to buy the cheapest non-ballast strip lights I can find for the storage area. The shop will eventually get some sort of mecury or sodium lamps I imagine, haven't reasearched it enough yet, can't afford them now anyhow.






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 02-04-2017, 07:57 Post: 32368
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 how is the barn going Cutter?

I am not a certified electrician, but I do know that a waterproof disconnect is available that would be fed from the meter box and will allow for two seperate 200 amp services. My house service is overhead, so it allows me to simply convert the exhisting pole to a meter pole by running two service entrance cables up it.






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 02-04-2017, 22:40 Post: 32384
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 how is the barn going Cutter?

Sounds like that idea worked well for your application Tom. I will probably use 4-0 URD for my run to the building, enclosed in conduit. I chose to go with an uncommon box and switch because I always over-do everything (to the tune of $5oo in material on the pole). All of my projects will surely outlast me. Since I had to take over maintence of the pole and the cables running up and down it, as well as the overhead run to the house, I wanted everything to be as trouble free as possible, including waterproof switchboxes. I have seen numerous installations you have described in the various farm camps in my area. They don't seem to have a problem with that either, but I ams whats I ams. If this did not involve my main residence, I would have gone another route.






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 02-05-2017, 08:29 Post: 32401
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 how is the barn going Cutter?

I like the cedar idea Tom. I do have to cross the driveway, there is an empty unused 4" pe culvert there I can use to insert conduit but it is only six inches or so deep. I will probably have to rip it out and go under it, but I do have the name and number of the inspector so I intend to do a verbal walk through with him. He was very helpfull when I wired my pool. I ran a 60 amp sub feed to my garage, installed a breaker box, wired the pump, my compressor, the outlet for the pool area (required by code) and the light. I also had to follow special grounding guidelines around the decking of the pool. I burried it all 2' deep, which was more than required. My only regret is that I used 1" conduit. The price difference for 1 1/2" would have been well worth the cost for ease of installation. I too have sub-contracted the pole work with the exception that the pole is already there and I am building the backboard. I dislike having to contract what I can do myself, but this feeds the house as well and besides not being and expert on code, the wife would mount me on the pole if I screwed it up.






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